JB food guide: Authentic 'fire station' nasi padang – plus, curry chicken along a popular 'cafe alley'

Sticking with my tried-and-true strategy, I let a local lead the way to another great meal across the Causeway. Hitting the road with JB resident and journalist David Ngiau, we ended up at his family’s favourite nasi padang restaurant, a short 10-minute drive from KSL City Mall (and if the traffic gods are kind, less than 20 minutes from Woodlands Checkpoint).

With a name like Restoran Arnasz Limo R, I half expected to see a swanky fleet of vehicles. In reality, it’s a modest restaurant in a nondescript shophouse located between Larkin and Taman Abad, where the focus is firmly on the food.

Its unique name is a family tribute – “Arnasz” combines the founders’ names and “Limo R” refers to their five children whose names all begin with the letter “R” (“limo” means five in their Minang dialect). To avoid confusion, most locals just call it “Balai Bomba Nasi Padang” because the Johor Fire & Rescue Station is a landmark directly across the road.

No air-con? No-frills? No problem for long-time regular David. "This restaurant has been around for about 40 years," he explained. "The second-generation owner, Mr Wan, is the son of the founder who actually came from Padang, so this is legit Padang cuisine." 

It’s that family-run touch that gives their nasi padang its authentic, home-cooked soul – the kind that leaves a lasting impression. In fact, David’s mother dreams about it. "When my parents come over from Singapore, she’s like, 'We have to go to Arnasz Limo R.' The variety is just mind-blowing."

That was no overstatement. I lost count after 50 dishes, not including the other tasty treats from their roti canai corner. But as I prepared to lock in my choices, I realised the rules of engagement were different. Unlike the standard "point-point" style in Singapore, there was no one waiting to portion out the food for us. Instead, I was ushered behind the glass display to help myself. 

According to David, this self-service style is the norm for most JB nasi padang shops, which added to the cosy, communal vibes of the place. The simplicity of this system of mutual trust was refreshing – you take exactly what you want, they expertly eyeball your selection and charge accordingly. It’s a respectful transaction that’s as much about the relationship as it is about the rice and a relaxed way of dining that feels increasingly rare. 

The massive menu changes daily, depending on what’s fresh at the market and the kitchen’s inspiration. From ayam berempah and thick squares of omelette to sliced beef in gravy and chopped mutton curry, the options were plentiful.

The seafood spread was equally impressive, featuring assam ikan pari pedas, whole squid, and fried fish coated in spices or smothered in kicap manis with lime and chillies. For offal lovers, there was paru (beef lung) served both fried and diced with sambal, chicken hearts stir fried with potato and long beans, and even gulai tunjang (beef tendon curry). 

Beyond the main food counter was a separate table heaving with veggie dishes, including stir-fried kangkong, green chilli tempeh, anyang (salad with spiced grated coconut) and achar (pickled cucumber, pineapple, onion and red chillies). 

An entire section was dedicated to sambals – belado (red chillies with aromatics and tomatoes), belacan (with toasted fermented shrimp paste) and my favourite, ijo. A must for any nasi padang meal, the vibrant green chilli condiment was lustrous, spicy and traditionally ground in a mortar and pestle for that perfect, chunky texture. 

After agonising over the tempting array, I finally made my picks. Begedil (deep-fried potato patty) was the golden crown to my carefully curated plate of treasures, which I loaded with more unusual dishes I’d not tried before – gulai perut lembu (honeycomb tripe curry), gravy-drenched dendeng (dried beef) and gulai nangka (young jackfruit curry), topped with paper-thin crispy potatoes. Beef rendang and a whole sambal terung (brinjal) completed my gluttonous meal.

David came to the rescue with a welcome offer. “There's too much to choose from,” he sympathised. “I'll have some of yours and I'll trade with you.” 

And that, Makan Kakis, is the true joy of nasi padang – a shared feast. The only thing David wasn’t keen on sharing was the gulai perut lembu, but I gamely tackled the enormous slice of beef stomach stewed in creamy turmeric gravy. It was a challenging but delicious chew, with coconut milk and spices mellowing the robust offal flavour.

As for the beef rendang, it was so tender it literally fell apart at the touch of my spoon – a clear sign it had been slow-cooked for hours. Deeply savoury, swimming in luscious gravy and braised to a velvety black hue, it was quite a departure from my usual experience of the dish. 

In contrast, David’s go-to ayam gulai was a refined and mild chicken curry splashed in shades of yellow. But the ultimate star of the entire show was his thinly sliced, deep-fried and chilli-coated version of dendeng. 

“That is phenomenal,” he declared. I couldn’t agree more. His choice trumped my saucier version - it was shatteringly crisp and deeply beefy, with just the right kick of heat. So addictive, we even ordered more to go. The total bill for both of us? A wallet-friendly RM23.50 (around S$7.50).

Its aesthetic was "demolition chic" with retro mosaic floors, exposed brick and rafters preserved from its former life as a residential home. Judging by the Instagrammable decor and cheeky name, I never would have guessed their specialty was curry chicken noodles. 

Co-owned by Jean Low, 53, and her uncle David Lim, 66, the cafe is a tribute to Jean’s 81-year-old mother Lim Yok Soon, who ran a stall in Tangkak, then part of northern Muar. Jean took over the mantle in 2014 and moved the business to JB a little over a year ago.

“Many previous customers from Muar will make a special trip to eat here,” she said. “My mother’s original curry recipe was very simple, she didn't add many ingredients or spices, but it's really fragrant, tasty, and made with heart.”

Jean has since put her own spin on the legacy by developing new recipes like green and red curry laksa seafood noodles. Also on the menu are classic favourites like mee siam and nasi lemak. But we had to try the 1982 original that started it all – mum’s signature curry chicken - with a twist. 

The Curry Chicken Bread (RM39.90 for two to share) came in a crusty, hollowed-out loaf overflowing with tender chicken leg and potatoes. Fresh slices of cucumber and tomato, fingers of bread and an extra bowl of curry finished the presentation. It was aromatic, rich and flavourful. 

“My creation is a personal favourite. The bread is toasted till really crispy, perfect for dipping. There is santan (coconut milk) in the curry, but not a lot, so it's not very jelak (cloying),” Jean shared.

To wash it down, David stuck to a classic local brew of Kopi-O (RM5.90), but I figured the Instagrammable decor called for an Instagrammable beverage. So I enjoyed the Dear Bear Kopi (RM12.90) – a strong, frothy latte topped with a frozen coffee bear that kept the drink potent as it melted.

“JB’s cafe scene is the place to experiment and try something new,” David noted. 

There is certainly no shortage of that along Jalan Beringin. Within walking distance of My KOL Cafe are heavy hitters like industrial-themed Japanese cafe Keijometo and the wildly popular Nimmies Pastry Cafe, along with Palates & Bagels, Swell by Vamos Coffee Roastery and The Early Bird, to name a few.

From the down-to-earth charm of Balai Bomba nasi padang to the hipster vibes of Taman Melodies, it had been a day of delicious traditional-meets-trendy contrasts and a fascinating slice of JB life.

Restoran Arnasz Limo R Nasi Padang is located at 12, Jalan Dato Jaafar, Larkin, 80350 Johor Bahru, Johor Darul Ta'zim, Malaysia. It’s open daily 6.30am to 9pm.

My KOL Cafe is located 92, Jalan Beringin, Taman Melodies, 80250 Johor Bahru, Johor Darul Ta'zim, Malaysia. It's open daily from 8am to 10pm. 

Catch Makan Kakis with Denise Tan every Thursday from 11am on MediaCorp GOLD 905.