Where to eat, shop, stay and play in Canggu, Bali’s buzzy surf town

Visit Canggu today and it is hard to imagine this stretch of Bali was once a sleepy surf outpost. Just north of bustling Seminyak, it is now one of the Island of the Gods’ most vibrant neighbourhoods, shaped by a steady influx of digital nomads, wellness devotees and creatives – many of whom arrived during the pandemic and never quite left.

It still carries an easy beach-town energy, but now bustles with co-working cafes, boutique fitness studios and a growing appetite for design-led dining and retail. The result is a place that feels busy but lived-in – a refreshing change from Bali’s usual crush of sun-worshipping, resort-hopping tourists.

There are also quieter corners from which to catch Bali’s famed sunsets, away from the jostle of its large beach clubs. As night falls, the scene shifts to a loose circuit of DJ sets and weekly parties across a handful of venues. There is no official schedule – it runs on an “if you know, you know” basis. Luckily, we do – more on this later.

With the arrival of Regent Bali Canggu on the beachfront, the neighbourhood is also drawing travellers looking for a more polished stay. Here are some of the buzziest places to check out on your next visit.

DINING HOTSPOTS

Many still think of Ubud as Bali’s culinary heart, but Canggu is emerging as a serious contender. One of its latest openings is Cure Bali, where Michelin-starred chef Andrew Walsh has brought his celebrated Singapore restaurant to a striking beachfront setting at Regent Bali Canggu.

Regulars expecting a carbon copy of the original may be pleasantly surprised. Working with chef de cuisine Arvin Tjandra, Walsh takes a more relaxed, coastal approach, layering European technique with Balinese produce and broader Asian influences. Dishes such as bluefin tuna tartare, brightened with kaffir lime leaf and tomato jelly, and roasted aged duck feel familiar yet elegantly reworked. There is even an ode to Singapore in a comforting bowl of Japanese rice folded with crispy chicken skin and egg yolk jam – simple in concept, but deeply moreish.

Walsh also helms Sazon, a Mediterranean-inspired bar and grill focused on open-fire cooking and generous shared plates.

Also in the neighbourhood is Santanera, a Latin American-leaning restaurant that draws on techniques such as smoking, marinating, fermenting and charcoal grilling, reinterpreted through a modern lens with local produce. Standouts from the communal menu include the yellowfin tuna and salmon roe tartlet, and hamachi ceviche with plantain crackers.

Other nearby spots worth a reservation include Asian fusion restaurant Muda by Suka, izakaya-inspired Yuki and Sensorium, a modern bistro with minimalist interiors that is particularly good for brunch or lunch. There is also Masonry by chef Benjamin Cross, one of the early contemporary restaurants to put Canggu on the culinary map.

WHERE TO WORK UP A SWEAT

For those looking to work up an appetite, Canggu has plenty to offer. Fitness here is less a holiday add-on than a daily ritual, with a line-up of gyms and studios that would not look out of place in a major city. PR and marketing specialist Windy Prasanti, a fitness enthusiast who lives in the neighbourhood, has plenty of suggestions.

Hyrox devotees should check out Power + Revive, a Canggu studio offering group workouts, open gym access and recovery facilities. Classes are high-energy and community-driven, often spilling over into social events such as fitness festivals and the occasional fight night. Recovery facilities include a sauna, cold plunge and Jacuzzi.

Another Hyrox training ground is Island Sports Club, where coach Johnny Tieu – popular on social media – leads classes. Padel courts are also on site for those who like a competitive edge to their fitness. Other options for racquet sports include Bali Social Club and Liga Tennis.

Meanwhile, newcomer Reload is already drawing attention for its sleek, well-equipped facilities, while Runamuk has become a lively hub for runners in Pererenan.

For something different, Rock Island is a large climbing and bouldering gym, with classes and rental gear available, while combat sports enthusiasts gravitate towards The Block and Soma Fight Club. Hot Pilates is also gaining ground, with Bareheat drawing a steady crowd.

In Canggu, a cafe serving post-workout protein shakes or acai bowls is rarely far away.

SMALL SHOPS, BIG MEMORIES

If your idea of souvenir shopping leans towards fashion finds and design-led keepsakes rather than mass-produced fridge magnets, Canggu more than delivers. The neighbourhood is packed with independent labels and thoughtfully curated boutiques, many of them designed or produced in Bali.

Magali Pascal, founded by a French designer with deep roots in Bali, is one of the island’s most established names in boho-chic resortwear. Les Basics does elevated essentials particularly well, while By The Sea is a reliable stop for linen pieces that transition easily from holiday to home. Love, Joy rounds things out with timeless dresses, jumpsuits and separates in natural fabrics such as linen and silk.

One of my favourite discoveries is slow fashion label Tale of Two, where botanical-dyed textiles are transformed into flowing maxi dresses, sheer bloomer trousers and delicate tops inspired by traditional Balinese attire. Thoughtful, understated and very much of the moment, the pieces feel climate-appropriate without slipping into predictable resortwear territory.

Fragrance lovers should stop at Oaken Lab, an Indonesian artisan fragrance house whose nuanced, atmospheric scents sit close to the skin rather than announcing themselves across a room.

If you happen to be around on a Sunday, the market at La Brisa is worth a browse. Equal parts indie shopping and social scene, it has a relaxed, slightly chaotic charm that feels very Canggu.

AFTER HOURS THE CANGGU WAY

Bali’s mega beach clubs get plenty of attention, so it is refreshing that nights in Canggu can still feel relatively low-key.

For a well-crafted cocktail, Segno is an excellent place to begin, with Japanese-inspired drinks that favour precision over theatrics. Bar Souvenir offers a moodier, speakeasy-style escape, while Black Sand Brewery draws a sociable crowd with craft beers and long communal tables.

The team at Regent Bali Canggu pointed me towards Canggu’s unofficial nightlife circuit – a loosely followed rotation of venues that regulars drift between throughout the week.

The weekend effectively starts on Thursdays at Sazon, where Sazon Fiesta dinners blend sharing plates, cocktails and disco-fuelled DJ sets into something between a dinner party and a dance floor. On Tuesdays and Fridays, Desa Kitsune’s Garden sessions draw a fashionable crowd. Saturdays belong to Giselle Bali, where live drummers and percussionists turn dinner into a spectacle. On Sundays, The Back Room hosts its weekly Afro Roots night.

And then there is Motel Mexicola, whose second Bali outpost in Canggu can usually be counted on for a good time.

CHECK IN, TUNE OUT

Canggu has never lacked villas and surf lodges, and hotels such as Further Hotel and Como Uma Canggu have steadily raised the bar for design-led stays.

The arrival of Regent Bali Canggu marks a significant new chapter for beachfront luxury in the neighbourhood. Yet despite the expected five-star hallmarks – twice-daily housekeeping, expansive tropical grounds and multiple pools – the property never feels disconnected from the neighbourhood around it.

The interiors, by design firm HBA, reference contemporary Indonesian craftsmanship through details such as decorative screens inspired by bamboo weaving, warm timber accents and hand-carved teak bathtubs polished to a glossy finish.

Its wellness programme goes beyond standard Balinese massages, incorporating hydrotherapy, cold plunges, cryotherapy facials and sound healing sessions aimed at the recovery-minded crowd.

One particularly smart touch is a discreet side entrance that allows guests to slip into the neighbourhood’s cafes, boutiques and restaurants within minutes – before retreating just as quickly into the calm of the resort.