The truth about sebum: What those tiny dots on your nose really mean

Hands up if you’ve looked in the mirror and wondered why your skin is marred by little flesh-toned, light brown or grey dots, especially on your nose, chin and even cheeks.

Here’s the kicker: These “dots”, which often get mistaken for blackheads, cannot be permanently removed.

But the good news is that their appearance can be minimised. 

They are sebaceous filaments, which are “natural, tiny thread-like structures that line the walls of your pores and their role is to help guide sebum from the sebaceous glands to the surface of your skin”, explained Dr Lee Hwee Chyen, dermatologist and medical director, Epi Dermatology & Laser Specialist Clinic.

However, when the skin produces more oil, these filaments can appear more prominent, which results in the tiny “dots” on your skin.

So does that make sebum the enemy?

Sebum is the “oily substance naturally produced by our sebaceous glands. It protects our skin barrier and also moisturises our skin’s surface. It’s made up of a mixture of ‘lipids’ or fatty molecules, including triglycerides, wax esters, squalene and fatty acids”, added Dr Lee.

Also, according to Dr Pamela Chong, aesthetic doctor at Epion Clinic, “sebum by itself is not black or dirty, it’s a vital component of healthy skin, but imbalances in production or shedding can lead to issues like sebum clogs, which are often under the surface and less visible". 

For this reason, a diligent pore-cleansing routine is needed to prevent build-up and ensure that skin remains clean and clear.

TO GO OIL-FREE OR NOT?

But before you switch up your entire skincare routine to oil-free options, take a pause.

“Oil-free doesn’t necessarily mean non-comedogenic. Many oil-free formulations contain silicones or esters that can still contribute to clogged pores,” cautioned Dr Chong.

In addition, “while oil-free products are commonly recommended for oily skin types, avoiding oils entirely may also disrupt the skin’s natural balance. Some oils, especially those rich in linoleic acid, can help regulate sebum quality and improve barrier repair”, Dr Chong added.

Moreover, Dr Lee shared that skin type also matters when considering skincare products. “For dry or sensitive skin, oil-free products can compromise the skin’s natural barrier, leading to more dryness, irritation and even increased sebum production as the skin tries to compensate.”

Instead, Dr Lee advised opting for a balanced routine around “gentle, non-comedogenic products that help regulate sebum production without stripping the skin”. 

CAN YOU DISSOLVE SEBUM?

You’ve probably also come across content creators on social media talking about dissolving sebum to prevent clogged pores. But is this even possible?

“Technically speaking, sebum can’t be melted like wax, but it can be broken down or dispersed using lipid-soluble ingredients,” explained Dr Chong.

The products might also contain ingredients that help reduce the build-up within the pores by exfoliating away dead skin cells and clearing the debris, which in turn, help to unclog the pores, shared Dr Lee.

For instance, oil-based cleansers work by binding to the sebum and lifting it from the skin through emulsification while beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, can penetrate oil-filled pores and help loosen clogs, said Dr Chong.

COMBATING PORE CONGESTION

So to keep pores clean and clear, here’s what you can incorporate into your skincare routine.

1. CHEMICAL EXFOLIANTS

BHAs like salicylic acid can penetrate deep into the pores to clear oil and debris while AHAs like glycolic acid work to remove surface dead skin.

2. RETINOIDS

Topical retinoids can promote and normalise the rate of skin cell turnover, regulate sebum production and prevent build-up within the pores. And in turn, can help reduce the size of existing clogs over time, said Dr Chong.

3. NON-COMEDOGENIC SKINCARE

Look for actives like ceramides, glycerin or niacinamide-based products to keep skin hydrated without clogging the pores. This is especially true if you’re prone to build-up and if your skin is oily or have acne.

And for a safe and effective routine, follow these doctor-approved tips:

• When incorporating retinoids into your skincare, start with a lower strength product at night, and always follow with a moisturiser to ease irritation. Also make sure that you apply sunscreen during day. “Consistency is key as results are gradual and typically requires a few weeks to months so show visible improvement,” added Dr Chong.
• Apply UV protection diligently. According to Dr Chong, “long term UV exposure can thicken the outermost skin layer, making pores look larger and more congested”.
• Seek professional medical advice if clogged pores persist, advised Dr Lee. DIY-extractions can result in you pushing any bacteria deeper into the skin, leading to infections, scarring or post-inflammatory pigmentation.
• “Avoid excessive scrubbing and over-washing – these can cause irritation, dryness and even lead to more build-up,” advised Dr Lee. Instead, keep cleansing to just twice daily to prevent dryness, and when using chemical exfoliants, begin with once to twice weekly use and then increase gradually.
• Don’t use exfoliants on irritated or broken skin – areas that are already inflamed, red or broken. “This can worsen irritation, trigger flare-ups (especially in conditions like rosacea or eczema) and delay healing. Always wait until the skin has calmed down before resuming pore care routines,” shared Dr Chong.

KEEPING PORES CLOG-FREE

1. INNISFREE SUPER VOLCANIC PORE CLAY MASK IN COOL MINT CHOCOLATE, S$23

Perfect for Singapore’s heat and humidity, this exfoliating clay mask with Jeju volcanic cluster spheres to absorb excess sebum and clear out impurities trapped in the pores and finely milled grape seed powder to refine skin texture.

Available at www.sephora.sg.

2. SUNGBOON EDITOR BLACKHEAD MELTING CLEAR PAD, S$35 (30 PADS)

Not your typical toner pad, these are made especially for the T-zone. Infused with a unique Sebum Melting Complex that contains witch hazel leaf water, botanical extracts (sage, Saponaria officinalis leaf and Arctium majus root) as well as hyaluronic acid and allantoin, it removes impurities, purifies the skin and reduces excess sebum production. 

Available at the official Sungboon Editor store on Shopee.sg.

3. ILSO SUPER MELTING SEBUM SOFTENER, S$38.40

This water-light skincare targets excess sebum and impurities in the pores, softening them for easy removal. In addition to helping with sebum management, it also provides a gentle exfoliation using a fruit complex while actives like centella asiatica extract keeps skin soothed at the same time.

Available at www.watsons.com.sg

4. DR JART+ PORE-REMEDY PHA EXFOLIATING SERUM, S$64

A bi-phase serum that combines PHA (a gentler AHA), panthenol and macadamia seed oil to not only decongest pores, but also refine skin texture. Plus, it won’t cause dryness or irritation, making it suitable for even sensitive skins. 

Available at www.sephora.sg.

5. DECORTE AQ PORE BLACKHEAD DISSOLVER, S$120

Thanks to the use of quantum computing technology – the first of its kind to be used in skincare, the proprietary formula consisting of a blend of oils – jojoba, safflower, baobab and meadowfoam, and butters – murumuru and shea, delivers effective results. It targets the lipids in sebum plugs, dissolving them with ease to gently remove the impurities that clog pores to reveal a smoother and more refined skin texture after cleansing.

Available at Decorte counters.